GREGSAINTS
- MEMBER
- 2016 FORD F-150
- 5.0L
- V8
- 2WD
- AUTOMATIC
- 70,000 MILES
Code P0012, I'll start with the sensor as my first step but I can't find where this is located?
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Wednesday, April 21st, 2021 AT 6:21 PM
3 Replies
Good morning,
The code is for cam sensor 1 bank 1. That is on the back of the passenger side of the motor, the outer sensor.
//www.2carpros.com/articles/camshaft-angle-sensor-replacement
I attached the possibilities and the procedure for you below.
Roy
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Thursday, April 22nd, 2021 AT 2:32 AM
Thank you for your reply! Excuse my ignorance but can you circle the one I should be removing? Thanks in advanced.
Thursday, April 22nd, 2021 AT 1:49 PM
You are welcome.
I attached the picture and circled the sensor. Click to enlarged the image.
Roy
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Thursday, April 22nd, 2021 AT 1:55 PM
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Cam sensor bank 1
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Cam sensor bank 1
Truck is an 08 with the 5.4 flex fuel with about 150k on the clock
Well this morning I started my truck ad made my 25 mile commute to work and noticed it sounded allot throatier than normal I wasn't complaining at that point I figured I blew out the muffler. but after I had my material for the day I started my truck back up to find a CEL.
Truck is running codes P0340 and P0344, passenger side cam sensor.
I followed a few
guides and so far I've:
-taken out the sensor cleaned it and ohm'd it out, it seems to be in spec +/- 400 ohms
- checked dc to the sensor seems to be 0.3 volts dc
- checked AC out seems to be between 0.5 to 1 volt AC
- had continuity to ground on the ground pin
however I did find the alternator voltage to be a tid bit low, under 14 volts running.
Well I'd hate to replace the alt if that's not the issue because that being the cause seems pretty rare and I find it unlikely the truck skipped timing (had chains and tensioners done 40k ago)
Truck does have the typical phaser knock, I gave up on trying to fix that 50,000 miles ago.
any ideas on where to go from here?
Edit: also the codes appear to come back as soon as I reset them.
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 7,847
Sounds like a Phaser issue . A VVT solenoid may help . I have had luck before with replacing the solenoids . Best of luck !
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWC 3
Sounds like a Phaser issue . A VVT solenoid may help . I have had luck before with replacing the solenoids . Best of luck !
I should have mentioned the solenoids were done with the timing gear 50k ago.
I"m going to swap out the sensor and see if that does it.
any ideas on how to see if the alt is putting out AC, my meter didn't find anything and the oscilloscopes I have access to really aren't the right type (radio testing)
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 7,847
If into electronics , you should know the lack of quality of today's parts . 50 K of service can kill anything . Do you have a Fluke ? It should show AC problems . Another thing . How is your oil and filter quality . They make a huge difference in VVT performance .
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWC 3
If into electronics , you should know the lack of quality of today's parts . 50 K of service can kill anything . Do you have a Fluke ? It should show AC problems . Another thing . How is your oil and filter quality . They make a huge difference in VVT performance .
I just have a cheap DMM with me, I have flukes at the shop I can use when I get the time to do it.
oil and filter are motorcraft with a bit of lucas(seems to shut up the phasers a bit), changed around every 3k since I've owned it.
I plan on popping the valve cover off tomorrow to see what it looks like.
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so for S&Gs I switched the sensors to see if it'd follow the sensor, nope.
I put a tone and sniffer on the wire back to the pcm found the pin and ohmed it out to be about 0.2 ohms, I'm not sure if that's in spec or not (I can't seem to find any figures on it)
also had the alt tested 54mV ripple, unfortunately I can't tell how the trace looks by the print out.
Well I have no clue what it could be at this point, I really doubt it skipped a tooth on the timing chain because wouldn't I instantly get an advance/retard code.
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